How to create a forest garden with maximum biodiversity and benefits

How to create a forest garden with maximum biodiversity and benefits

A proper forest garden is not an ordinary orchard or a plot where trees are planted randomly. This ismosaic multi-tiered ecosystem, which simultaneously:

produces food, timber, medicinal raw materials, honey and planting material;

preserves soil, water and carbon;

creates habitats for animals, birds, insects and fungi;

creates a pleasant space for people;

generates income not from one, but from several sources.

Agroforestry is precisely how the FAO and Swiss research organizations view it: as the combined use of trees, shrubs, crops and sometimes animals to achieve productive, environmental and social benefits.FAOHome)

1. The main principle: do not mix everything evenly

One of the main mistakes is to buy 50 interesting breeds and distribute them evenly throughout the area.

It would be more correct to createmosaic of functional zones:

natural forest frame;

productive food forest;

sunny meadows;

wet areas;

dry slopes;

protective edges;

utility alleys;

quiet areas for animals;

reservoirs;

small experimental collections.

Each zone must have its own light, water and economic regime.

For example, bald cypress, alder, and European white elm are best planted near water, while walnut, chestnut, and cedar trees thrive in well-drained areas. Yew and hazel can thrive in partial shade, while berbera, cherry, and wild pear require sunny windows.

2. First, study the area

Before choosing trees, you need to makemap of microzones.

What is marked on the map

It is especially important to observe the areanot one day, but at least one full season, including heavy rain, summer drought and winter period.

3. Preserve what is already alive

Before clearing, it is necessary to determine which elements already have ecological value:

old trees;

hollows;

dead wood;

thick lying trunks;

natural growth;

thickets of local shrubs;

anthills;

stone piles;

wet depressions;

springs;

old hedges;

areas of wild grass.

An old tree with cracks, hollows, and dead branches may have less economic value than a young, straight tree, but much greater value to birds, bats, insects, and fungi. The WSL describes dozens of types of tree microhabitats; for commercial forests, it is recommended to conserve approximately 6–10 habitat trees per hectare.WSL)

For a forest garden it is reasonable to preserve:

at least 6–10 large habitat trees per hectare;

a few standing dry tree trunks, if they are safe;

some large fallen branches;

5-10% of the territory with minimal intervention.

4. Build a forest garden with several tiers

A classic forest garden can have seven or more levels. However, it's not necessary to fill every square meter with all tiers.

Tier 1. Tall frame trees

This is a durable system structure.

Suitable breeds:

oak;

linden;

elm;

maple;

beech - only in fairly damp areas;

pine;

fir;

larch;

cedar pine;

individual true cedars;

chestnut;

walnut.

Functions

climate regulation;

deep rooting;

wood;

nuts and seeds;

wind protection;

carbon;

nesting sites.

Frame trees should not be planted too densely. It's not the size of the seedling that matters, but the size of the crown in 30–50 years.

Tier 2. Medium-sized fruit trees

apple trees;

pears;

plums;

cherries;

cherries;

quince;

medlar;

persimmon in suitable areas;

domestic rowan;

bereka;

mulberry;

apricot and peach in warm microzones.

Functions

harvest;

bloom;

nectar and pollen;

fruits for birds;

products for processing.

It is better to place fruit trees not under a continuous upper canopy, but along sunny edges, alleys and clearings.

Tier 3. Small trees and large shrubs

hazel;

red;

hawthorn;

elderberry;

to the land;

aronia;

viburnum;

they have become sea buckthorn;

rowan;

medlar;

small plums;

almonds in warm places.

Functions

nuts and berries;

bird shelter;

protection of young trees;

early flowering;

wind protection;

biomass for mulch.

Tier 4. Berry bushes

currant;

gooseberry;

raspberry;

blackberry;

honeysuckle;

blueberries on acidic soils;

rose hip;

barberry;

aronia;

viburnum.

It is convenient to place bushes in strips accessible for collection, rather than scattering them randomly under trees.

Tier 5. Herbaceous perennials

rhubarb;

sorrel;

asparagus;

perennial onion;

wild leek;

nettles in controlled areas;

comfrey;

Melissa;

mint;

sage;

thyme;

thyme;

yarrow;

medicinal and spicy herbs.

Their functions:

food;

medicines;

food for pollinators;

biomass accumulation;

soil protection;

attracting beneficial insects.

Tier 6. Groundcover plants

strawberries;

clover;

tenacious;

deadnettle;

periwinkle - handle with caution due to overgrowth;

thyme;

low legumes;

local forest herbs.

There's no need to cover the entire surface with a single, aggressive species. A mosaic of grasses, exposed soil, moss, leaf litter, and wood is more beneficial for a variety of organisms.

Tier 7. Vines

grape;

actinidia;

lemongrass;

hops;

blackberries on supports;

climbing beans in young systems.

Vines should be trained onto separate supports. They should not be allowed to overload young fruit trees uncontrollably.

Underground tier

Jerusalem artichoke;

garlic;

onion;

horseradish;

roots;

edible tuberous perennials;

mycorrhizal fungi;

saprotrophic fungi on wood.

5. Divide plants by function

One tree can perform several functions, but a forest garden should not consist only of fruit crops.

Main functional groups

A good reference point:each important element must perform at least two functions, and each critical function must be provided by several types.

For example, not only apple trees provide food, but also nuts, chestnuts, berries, mushrooms, and herbs. Windbreaks are created not by a single dense wall of thujas, but by trees and shrubs of varying heights.

6. The ratio of natural and productive parts

For a project that must simultaneously serve both nature and the economy, it makes sense to divide the territory as follows:

This is not a mandatory formula. On a small plot, the economic share will be higher, and in a conservation project, it will be lower.

7. Don't plant trees in neat rows everywhere.

Rows are useful where you need:

mechanized harvesting;

passage of equipment;

grazing;

growing vegetables between trees;

wood production;

drip irrigation.

But biodiversity also requires:

groups of trees;

single large trees;

sunny meadows;

winding forest edges;

shrub islands;

open areas of soil;

wet depressions;

dead wood.

Optimal combination:

orderly utility alleys;

semi-natural forest groups;

irregular protective edges.

8. Distances between trees

Distances depend on the rootstock, fertility and care system.

Approximate distances

The main mistake is relying solely on young trees. Fast-bearing plants can be temporarily planted between large, long-lived trees, which can later be removed or transferred to a coppice management system.

9. Create guilds, not individual trees

Guild- a small community of plants around the main tree.

An example of an apple guild

In the center:

apple.

Near:

currant;

chives;

garlic;

comfrey;

strawberries;

yarrow;

clover;

Flowering plants for predatory insects.

Functions:

harvest;

mulch;

pollinators;

ground cover layer;

partial suppression of grass;

soil nutrition.

Chestnut Guild

chestnut;

hazel at a sufficient distance;

currant;

raspberries on the sunny border;

clover;

mushrooms on wood chips;

medicinal herbs.

Oak Guild

oak;

linden;

rowan;

hazel;

hawthorn;

rose hip;

forest herbs;

dead wood.

The oak guild may be less productive directly for humans, but is extremely valuable for animals and long-term sustainability.

10. Provide food all year round

For animals and pollinators, it is not the total number of flowering plants that is important, butcontinuity of flowering and fruiting.

An example of a seasonal sequence

Some of the fruit should be deliberately left for birds and animals.

11. Create the right edge

The forest edge is often biologically richer than the inner part of the forest.

Correct structure from open space to forest:

low grasses;

tall grass;

berry bushes;

tall shrubs;

small trees;

large trees.

The width of a multi-tiered forest edge can range from 5–10 m in a small area to 20–30 m in a large project.

Avoid making a sharp transition: the field is a vertical wall of tall trees. A gentle edge provides better protection from the wind and more habitat.

12. Use hedges as ecological corridors

The hedge should connect:

forest;

water;

orchard;

field;

adjacent natural areas;

stream;

meadow.

Connected corridors allow animals to move between habitats and reduce landscape fragmentation. Creating such connections is considered an important practice for agroforestry and biodiversity conservation.Food Forward NDCs & NBSAPs)

A suitable composition for Switzerland

hazel;

hawthorn;

red;

viburnum;

rose hip;

turn;

beresklet;

elderberry;

honeysuckle;

individual oaks, field maples and wild pears.

It is better to make a hedge not from one species, but from 6–12 local species.

13. Be sure to turn on the water.

Even a small body of water dramatically increases the diversity of organisms.

Useful elements:

pond with a gentle bank;

seasonal puddle;

shallow water zone;

wet ditch;

biofilter;

rocks and wood near the water;

fish-free area for amphibians;

separate utility tank.

For biodiversity, a small natural pond with varying depths is more important than a decorative pool with vertical walls.

You should not stock every pond with fish: fish can destroy the eggs, larvae of amphibians and many aquatic invertebrates.

14. Leaving dead wood

A dead tree is not waste, but an independent element of the forest.

It is useful to save:

thick lying trunks;

stumps;

piles of branches;

several standing dry trees;

wood chips;

half-rotten logs in damp places.

The following live on them:

mushrooms;

beetles;

ants;

mosses;

lichens;

amphibians;

small mammals.

But near roads, children's areas and buildings, dangerous dead wood must be protected.

15. Don't destroy all the grass

A short-cut lawn is biologically poor.

In a forest garden it is better to have several modes:

Don't mow the entire area in one day. It's better to break it up into sections so the insects always have a place to hide.

16. Planting the tree itself

The correct sequence

Dig a hole not much deeper than the root system, but wider than it.

Loosen the compacted edges.

Do not bury the root collar.

Straighten out twisted roots.

Fill with mostly original soil.

Pour well.

Install 1-3 supports without overtightening the trunk.

Make a wide mulched circle.

Leave 10–15 cm free around the trunk.

Protect from roe deer, hares, mice and mechanical damage.

Mulch

Suitable for:

wood chips;

leaves;

partially rotted bark;

mown grass in thin layers;

compost on top of the soil.

It's not advisable to create a "volcano" of mulch around the trunk. Constant contact of wet organic matter with the bark can cause damage.

17. Planting in groups and reserve trees

When creating a forest frame, you can plant not just one ideal tree in its final location, but a small group of young plants:

3-5 oak trees;

3 linden trees;

a group of pine trees;

a group of rowan trees.

Over time, the healthiest tree is selected, and the rest:

are removed;

are transferred to the undergrowth;

used as biomass;

are formed by the root growth method.

This approach creates natural selection, but requires subsequent care. Leaving the entire group permanently is unacceptable if the mature trees become overcrowded.

18. Genetic diversity

You should not plant your entire garden from one cloned variety.

It is advisable to use:

different varieties of fruits;

different flowering periods;

local wild forms;

seed trees;

regional origins;

several pollinators;

resistant modern varieties.

For forest species, the origin of the planting material is particularly important. WSL is currently investigating a large number of species and origins across a network of experimental plots across Switzerland, as tree suitability will change as temperatures warm and summer droughts intensify.WSL)

Practical approach:

the basis is local and well-adapted species;

part - varieties resistant to diseases;

a small part are climatically promising species;

Rare exotics - only in the observed test sector.

19. Sequence of creation of a forest garden

Stage 1. Water and infrastructure

First, the following are formed:

roads;

watershed;

ponds;

drainages;

terraces;

irrigation lines;

passages;

economic zone.

You shouldn't plant trees first and then lay pipes and roads through their roots.

Stage 2. Wind protection and ecological frame

Landing:

hedges;

forest edges;

main forest groups;

trees along watercourses;

wind protection.

Stage 3. Frame trees

oaks;

linden trees;

walnuts;

chestnuts;

conifers;

large fruit;

trees of valuable timber.

Stage 4. Fruit and nut alleys

They are placed taking into account:

collection;

pollination;

sunlight;

possible mechanization;

processing of products.

Stage 5. Shrubs

Once the future light regime is clear, berry and protective shrubs are added.

Step 6: Herbs, Mushrooms, and Ground Cover

They are introduced after the stabilization of roads, irrigation and main plantings.

20. Economics of the forest garden

A forest garden shouldn't wait 25 years for its first income. It needs to be formedmultiple time horizons.

Income in the first 1-3 years

vegetables between rows;

herbs;

seedling;

flowers;

honey;

compost;

excursions;

educational events;

berries of fast-growing bushes.

In 3-7 years

raspberry;

currant;

elderberry;

aronia;

the first apples, plums and pears;

mushrooms on logs;

medicinal raw materials;

cuttings and seedlings.

In 7-15 years

main fruit harvest;

hazel;

early chestnut varieties;

fruit processing;

grazing livestock under trees;

wood chips;

handicrafts.

In 15-30 years

walnut;

chestnut;

pine nuts in suitable systems;

valuable timber after thinning;

large honey-producing resource;

developed tourism and education.

Long term

high quality wood;

genetic nursery;

seed material;

ecosystem services;

space rental;

social and health programs.

Agroforestry research and practical projects consider income diversification, increased farm resilience, and improved microclimate, soil, and water management as interrelated benefits. (Agroscope)

In one Swiss agroforestry trial plot, Agroscope reported a significant increase in humus content after seven years compared to an open, cultivated area, including deeper soil horizons. This is a good example of how economic productivity and soil restoration can develop simultaneously, although the results of a specific plot cannot be automatically transferred to any forest orchard.Agroscope)

21. Possible model for one hectare

For a plot of 10,000 m²:

This is not a quantity for one-time purchase. The full project is best implemented in stages over 3–7 years.

22. Example of tree distribution

50–60% – local and ecologically related species

oak;

linden;

maple;

elm;

birch;

rowan;

alder;

willow;

wild apple tree;

wild pear;

hazel;

thousand;

pine;

fir or larch depending on location.

25–35% — productive cultivated trees

apple;

pear;

plum;

cherry;

merry;

walnut;

chestnut;

quince;

mulberry;

hazelnut.

5–10% — rare and climatically promising species

domestic rowan;

bereka;

tree hazel;

resistant elm varieties;

individual cedars;

Metasequoia in the wet zone;

zelkova.

No more than 1–5% are collectible exotics

ginkgo;

sequoiadendron;

araucaria;

Wollemia;

rare cedars;

other relict species.

23. What is especially important for animals

The forest garden must contain:

thorny bushes for nests;

old trees and hollows;

plants with winter fruits;

early and late flowers;

shallow pond;

stone piles;

wood piles;

areas of tall grass;

open ground for ground bees;

areas without lighting at night;

continuous corridors between sections.

The idea of ​​absolute purity must be abandoned. A forest garden where all leaves, branches, dry stems, and fallen fruit are removed loses a significant portion of its ecological value.

24. Main mistakes

Planting too densely without a thinning plan.

Planting large trees under power lines.

Placement of fruit trees in future deep shade.

Mixing plants with opposite soil requirements.

Lack of water in the first years.

Planting one variety without a pollinator.

Use of invasive species.

Complete removal of dead wood.

Daily or too frequent mowing.

Lack of passages for collection and maintenance.

Too many crops requiring manual labor at the same time.

Lack of market and processing of products.

The focus is solely on the fruit harvest.

Focusing solely on ecology without an economic model.

Planting the entire project in one season.

The optimal philosophy of the DREVO forest garden

The forest garden should be built as a system of three interconnected parts:

Nature

local species;

water;

wild zones;

dead wood;

ecological corridors;

minimal use of chemicals.

Human

food;

rest;

training;

health;

beauty;

community participation;

accessible paths and meeting places.

Economy

different terms of income receipt;

value-added products;

processing;

nursery;

honey;

mushrooms;

walnuts;

wood;

tourism;

educational programs.

The best forest garden is not one where the maximum number of species is planted, but one where each species finds the right place, and the entire system preserves water, fertility, light windows, natural shelters, and ease of management.